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Post by phillstorm on Dec 15, 2007 16:24:16 GMT 10
A cheap fix as I did in preps for my next track day was to just change springs without removing forks and oil ect,then fit the 6mm spacer to rear. Great results achieved easilly
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billzilla
Senior Member
2005 - Matte Black
Posts: 338
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Post by billzilla on Mar 16, 2008 0:46:10 GMT 10
Quick question - did a search and couldn't find anything on this - Has anyone fitted SP2 forks to the front of their 'regular' VTR? I'd really like to fit inverted dampers to mine, as after reading this thread I now know I need to do a fair bit to the suspension to get it right. I'm 105kg and 197cm as well, so not small. Or perhaps inverted forks from another Honda ... ?
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Post by cheryldave on Mar 16, 2008 7:02:08 GMT 10
Heaps of people have done the CBR fork swap, but you need a pretty good bank balance. Check out the UK Superhawk site lots of info on this mod.
Cheers Dave
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Post by colinlinz on Mar 16, 2008 10:12:37 GMT 10
One of smokey's mates did this. He used all the CBR front end. Personally, I would get some custom fork yokes made, just to keep the trail down, as it will be greater than the blade. I did some calculations on the difference between the two set up. They are a bit rough as I couldn't be bothered measuring the circumference of the front wheel and just guessed. It is a constant, so the end result will give an idea of what I'm talking about.
Standard VTR has 97mm trail and close to 25 degrees head angle. Generally we make the trail shorter by lifting the rear as it helps steer quicker.
Standard CBR (07 model) has 100 mm trail and nearly 24 degrees head angle.
With the CBR's front end just swapped over the VTR would have 106mm of trail. This is greater than even the VTR or the CBR. It will slow the steering even more than normal. The up side would be a much better brake set up and a stiffer fork structure which would improve feel when pushed. With a custom set of yokes made about 8mm further offset, the trail would be reduced and the forks would have a little more clearance with the tank.
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billzilla
Senior Member
2005 - Matte Black
Posts: 338
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Post by billzilla on Mar 16, 2008 23:27:01 GMT 10
Ta for that gents.
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Post by vtrjase on Apr 13, 2008 23:44:57 GMT 10
I noticed today when checking checking the rebound on the forks that the left leg takes a 1/4 turn extra to seat from the factory stamped setting what is the reason for that?
I would have thought that they should be dialled the same from a seated position?
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Post by colinlinz on Apr 14, 2008 7:16:32 GMT 10
It's not a real issue. Some types of forks do rebound in one leg and compression in the other. The reality is that these forks allow very little adjustment, and the adjustment is only low speed rebound. It is only the latter model sports bikes that have any real amount of adjustability.
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Post by vtrjase on Apr 22, 2008 11:04:18 GMT 10
have put in a 6mm spacer dropped the forks 5mm and the bike turns in great and feels like it tracks a much tighter consistant line through corners with no head shake coming off corner.
compression is down to 3rd line and 1 1/4 turns in rebound (i am 70kg). Feels great at speed but really harsh at low speed so need to tweak the settings a little or just ride fast everywhere
cheers for all the tips so far
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Post by colinlinz on Jun 4, 2008 7:25:36 GMT 10
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Post by goosehead on Aug 14, 2008 18:07:55 GMT 10
Just lowered my forks by 10mm mainly so I can touch the ground easier. How much can they be lowered before it starts to become to twitchy? Still on me toes but not as bad as before. Thinking now it may be easier to get a modyfied seat.
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Aug 16, 2008 19:38:46 GMT 10
Hard to say, as I dont anyone else with your problem. Trial and error will tell you. I don't think that changing the seat will gain you much, it is not very thick to start with.
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bristunt
Senior Member
2000 SP1
Posts: 298
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Post by bristunt on Sept 5, 2008 12:10:36 GMT 10
I don't think you can go much more than 10mm before you risk the fender hitting the bottom of the tripple.
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Post by goosehead on Sept 5, 2008 17:02:53 GMT 10
When I get back on the road I will have to test it out
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nitros
Honourable Member
06 vtr Black
Posts: 878
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Post by nitros on Sept 5, 2008 17:41:18 GMT 10
I have just fitted some .90 springs [race tech]. I weigh 82kg. 20wt oil used. [could be a little heavy might go back to 15wt.] I have the forks through the tripples at 15mm but when the rake was measured it was at 25 degrees. The mechanic at the place where I got them done said the optimum should be around 22 degrees so hopefully dropping them another 5mm should do the trick? Have noticed a much better ride.
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Post by slicer07 on Mar 16, 2009 6:48:50 GMT 10
So I gather pre-2001 models need fork spring and re valve. Later models the spring are not as big an issue (they have been upgraded). Re valve on all models though. I must add it also depends what sort of riding you do.
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Post by colinlinz on Mar 18, 2009 18:56:09 GMT 10
I have just fitted some .90 springs [race tech]. I weigh 82kg. 20wt oil used. [could be a little heavy might go back to 15wt.] I have the forks through the tripples at 15mm but when the rake was measured it was at 25 degrees. The mechanic at the place where I got them done said the optimum should be around 22 degrees so hopefully dropping them another 5mm should do the trick? Have noticed a much better ride. What viscosity did race tech recomend. They used to say 5wt, as the damping is achieved by good valve and shim design rather than oil thickness.
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Post by slicer07 on Apr 28, 2009 9:11:02 GMT 10
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Apr 28, 2009 19:57:30 GMT 10
Nup, never heard of him.
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Post by craigvtr on Jun 4, 2009 7:13:01 GMT 10
Slicer07 Just read the thread. Try Paul Baericke @ MPE at Beerwah Ph 54390088. Completely serviced my forks and put in RaceTech springs and Gold Valves. Made heaps of difference.
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Post by slicer07 on Jun 4, 2009 8:57:11 GMT 10
Slicer07 Just read the thread. Try Paul Baericke @ MPE at Beerwah Ph 54390088. Completely serviced my forks and put in RaceTech springs and Gold Valves. Made heaps of difference. Thanks for the info. I live on the south side so a Brisbane suspension guy was chosen, and I am very happy with the results. Have you done the rear shock? If not, you still have problems. My bike felt overdamped at both ends and undersprung at the front, it suffered from compression lock and was skittish over rough surfaces, the fix involved the replacing of valves and springs. Went with SuspensionTech Stealth Valves for the forks and a suitable set of Ohlins springs. For the shock I went with RaceTech Gold Valving. All I can say is, I wish I had done it sooner. Smoother ride, better control, less fatigue, better tyre contact with the road, and high speed stability. www.racetech.com/page.aspx?id=53&menuid=61
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Sammy
Honourable Member
Black S3
Posts: 739
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Post by Sammy on Jun 4, 2009 19:12:12 GMT 10
Slicer07 Just read the thread. Try Paul Baericke @ MPE at Beerwah Ph 54390088. Completely serviced my forks and put in RaceTech springs and Gold Valves. Made heaps of difference. Thanks for the info. I live on the south side so a Brisbane suspension guy was chosen, and I am very happy with the results. Have you done the rear shock? If not, you still have problems. My bike felt overdamped at both ends and undersprung at the front, it suffered from compression lock and was skittish over rough surfaces, the fix involved the replacing of valves and springs. Went with SuspensionTech Stealth Valves for the forks and a suitable set of Ohlins springs. For the shock I went with RaceTech Gold Valving. All I can say is, I wish I had done it sooner. Smoother ride, better control, less fatigue, better tyre contact with the road, and high speed stability. www.racetech.com/page.aspx?id=53&menuid=61Good to hear dude...where abouts did you get this done?
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Post by slicer07 on Jun 4, 2009 19:28:55 GMT 10
Thanks for the info. I live on the south side so a Brisbane suspension guy was chosen, and I am very happy with the results. Have you done the rear shock? If not, you still have problems. My bike felt overdamped at both ends and undersprung at the front, it suffered from compression lock and was skittish over rough surfaces, the fix involved the replacing of valves and springs. Went with SuspensionTech Stealth Valves for the forks and a suitable set of Ohlins springs. For the shock I went with RaceTech Gold Valving. All I can say is, I wish I had done it sooner. Smoother ride, better control, less fatigue, better tyre contact with the road, and high speed stability. www.racetech.com/page.aspx?id=53&menuid=61Good to hear dude...where abouts did you get this done? Suspension Improvements Steve Wood Unit 3 49 Randall Street Slacks Creek 4127 07 3208 0082 0412 632 497 email: steve@allsuspension.com
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Sammy
Honourable Member
Black S3
Posts: 739
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Post by Sammy on Jun 4, 2009 20:40:46 GMT 10
Cheers mate So i take it he set up the bike to suit you and sorted sag and your weight for the bike?
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Post by slicer07 on Jun 5, 2009 9:19:56 GMT 10
Cheers mate So i take it he set up the bike to suit you and sorted sag and your weight for the bike? First, he wanted to know what sort of riding I did. Next was how much I weighed. He has a variety of different brands to choose from as well, so that was my next decision. You can opt for a replacement rear shock if funds allow. Once he had modified my suspension I went back, so that the sag with me on-board could be adjusted. Just sitting on the bike I could feel the difference, as the huge front sag was now gone. No more sliding forward so easily. Biggest overall improvement so far. ;D
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Post by Fozzy Bear on Jun 5, 2009 9:58:35 GMT 10
I noticed today when checking checking the rebound on the forks that the left leg takes a 1/4 turn extra to seat from the factory stamped setting what is the reason for that? I would have thought that they should be dialled the same from a seated position? Do your rebound screws bottom out before the slot reaches the preload adjuster? If so, ignore the S-H sticker thing and count turns out from full. If the screws run out of adjustment before they get tight, you can reset everything. You need two 14mm open ended spanners and a 24mm socket/spanner. Remove fork cap (24mm I think) Raise it up until you see the locknut on the damping tube. Put a 14mm spanner on the preload adjuster and loosen the locknut with the other spanner. Unscrew the fork cap a few turns (you could take it right off but the damping tube will drop down into the fork and they are a bit of a bugger to retrieve). Turn the rebound screw down until the bottom of the slot is flush with the face of the preload adjuster. Gently screw the fork cap back on to the damping tube until it stops turning (make sure the locknut is down out of the way) . Tighten the locknut with everything in this position then replace the fork cap into the fork and tighten (don't need to be super tight). Repeat for the other fork. Sounds complicated but as soon as your lift the fork cap, it will all make sense.
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Post by SaltyDog on Nov 6, 2013 17:30:48 GMT 10
Sorry for an old thread dig up, but i thought i'd just tack on my info, instead of making a new thread. Bike: VTR1000F 2004 Rider: 105Kg without riding gear Bike came to me with these settings Front Preload 4 Rebound 1 Rear Preload 6 Rebound ? (couldn't get a screwdriver in there) General feel of the bike was stiff both front and rear, my friend that owns a 2005 VTR1000 noticed it straight away compared to his. And that was just from sitting on it. He is 70Kg and his bike had been set up for a rider the same weight as him while at a Philip Island ride day. After a little riding and getting used to the VTR.... we used to compare the same parts of the road differently... Where he would fly and tell me he felt no bumps, i was almost getting kicked out of my seat, the rear felt nervous and like it wasn't connected to the road at all times, the front felt ok, a bit on the hard side. I changed my rear preload to 4 and the bike was instantly better, it felt confident, it tracked well, it was settled and i could get on the power earlier and harder. The front was unchanged, and as such, still felt hard.... and didn't match the front (as expected). But it is when i went to adjust it (the front) i got a shock... As it was already on a Preload of 4 (which is soft)... I have changed it to a Preload of 2 and the forks now feel better, softer (just standing and pushing on them). I'll go for a ride now and see what the difference is. I have no idea if the previous owner had changed the front fork springs. Ok, after a ride, it some how feels better, even though by my adjustments i've made it firmer... It seems now i can brake harder, but that in turn brings some new problems..... Feels like the chassis gets bound up and twists (or perhaps this is the weak forks?).... Overall the bike feels much better.... Still Learning
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vtrstormer
Admin
I feel the need, the need for a few twisties and a latte!
Posts: 1,663
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Post by vtrstormer on May 3, 2014 7:07:06 GMT 10
This has been covered a number of times, but I thought I might post some scans from my notes. It is important to understand there is no one answer, the right set up will depend on a number personal issues like costs, type of riding and what your personnel preferences are in the way the bike responds to you. The first is a chart to workout spring rate, use the lower chart. This one is how to measure and set your ride height. This one is how to go about adjusting the suspension. It is written for mechanics in race teams but the adjustment process is the same. Here is a link that is written a little simpler and deals in broad terms. www.factorypro.com/tech/Suspension_Setting.htmlHere is a sheet that will help keep track of what you have done and the results. Another great bit of info mate. I will be surely using this at some stage. Thanks
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