|
Post by Fozzy Bear on Jan 13, 2011 19:12:02 GMT 10
I have never heard of a steering lock being a legal requirement. They don't check it at roadworthys.
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Jan 13, 2011 19:53:31 GMT 10
Yeah, I have been looking through the queensland transport stuff on the web and there is nothing about a steering lock being required. I have found nothing saying it is a legal requirement. Am thinking maybe a keyless ignition/key fob/kill switch type set up rather than a key remoted elsewhere. just thoughts atm.
will prob go down to QT at some stage and ask someone face to face to confirm before grinding it off me thinks. once its ground, aint no coming back.
been playing on photoshop with the planned end, well, stage 1, product. will post it up some stage in the next few days.
looks like i have found a whole lot of lugs and things to grind off the frame for a much cleaner look. just need to make sure they will not be needed such as the side rad lugs. could they be used for something else? depends... at this stage no.
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Jan 14, 2011 19:54:22 GMT 10
I stared at the bike for quite a while today Identified a few other lugs on the frame I am considering chopping off. The ones circled with a dashed line I am not so sure about as I can use those by attaching things like the front coil or the horn on the inside of the frame. But I can attach those items anywhere really and I think the cleaner look would be worth it. The others can come off I think... I am also considering filing down/smoothing the welds on the frame as well. Would this weaken the welds? I am not sure of this. I wouldnt think so but... So yeah, not much cash atm but keen to do some work on the girl. The build is taking a loooong time but I am still quite committed to doing it. I am not really in a hurry. There will be further delays and lulls in the future I suppose but I will plod along with it For those interested who live in QLD, I have found the pertinent Queensland Transport link for modifying vehicles/motorcycles at the below link, www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications.aspxOf note, minor modifications can be carried out without approval. Complex ones can be done by the owner as long as an "Approved person" has given the OK. Specific modifications are those outside the scope of the Approved person and this is where you need to fork out the bucks for an application. This money is non refundable regardless if your application is approved or not. Details of what constitutes what can be found at the link. I am still in the process of going through this... I basically want to do only minor and complex mods and avoid those which would be deemed "Specific". At this early stage it seems mostly aimed at custom bespoke choppers and things like that. Just going through this stuff before I do too much yet. Prob first step will be working on the frame with an angle grinder and some files. Might also tidy up/decast the motor as well. Oh, and here is my rough photoshop job of the planned look... Not exactly right but rough enough. The colour of the tank, tail etc may change. I like the matt black on the KTM RC8s... But also like gun metal grey... dunno. Its great to be 'bonding' with the bike again ;D
|
|
pete
True Stormer
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by pete on Jan 15, 2011 7:44:31 GMT 10
Sheeet! When I saw the picture i thought this was the finished product...it will look great if it looks like that . When you get the frame done are you getting it powder coated or painted?
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Jan 15, 2011 9:12:47 GMT 10
Still not sure on paint or powder. Or bedliner. I am considering the texture. Will be black though for sure.
|
|
cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
|
Post by cheekybugger on Jan 15, 2011 21:14:13 GMT 10
For a naked, that is pretty cool. Aside from a place to hide the (massive) battery that should be doable. Having seen some of OCC's builds - this process comes to mind . . . NuSkin by www.tarjac.comScroll down the bottom of the home page and look at the New Patterns. Maybe Reaper Black 486 for the frame?
|
|
cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
|
Post by cheekybugger on Jan 15, 2011 21:17:37 GMT 10
to see it actually being done.
|
|
trezza
Honourable Member
'08 CBRThou
Posts: 613
|
Post by trezza on Jan 15, 2011 23:00:25 GMT 10
i always dreamed of fightering my old 'Storm a couple suggestions that were ideas i wanted to try... Keyless start with built-in immobiliser single sided swingarm (vfr800 or similar) raise the tail heat-wrap the headers (i reckon it looks awesome) and possibly look at the side-mounted guages off the side of the frame. that photoshop job is showing one sexy bike! definately not how Mr Honda intended
|
|
spitfire
Honourable Member
2004 - Blue
Posts: 993
|
Post by spitfire on Jan 16, 2011 0:26:39 GMT 10
If you are thinking powdercoating have you thought about Hammertone Grey it would look awesome on the frame
|
|
trezza
Honourable Member
'08 CBRThou
Posts: 613
|
Post by trezza on Jan 16, 2011 1:10:10 GMT 10
Oh yeah and i'd be leaving the welds alone. they'll look good painted up anyway, give it a bit of rawness and a "handmade" look
|
|
|
Post by benny on Jan 16, 2011 11:17:27 GMT 10
I'm too scared to go taking a grinder to my frame. If you end up grinding, it will be so worth it though! It will make the frame look smoother and custom. Are you thinking of a rear mount? I can never figure out where the hell you put the overflow tank. I've studied photos of that canadians vtr build, don't think he even has one though. Thats what I love about streetfighters, only your imagination can hold you back.
Benny.
|
|
Swampy
Senior Member
Posts: 300
|
Post by Swampy on Jan 16, 2011 19:18:16 GMT 10
Changing those engine bolts changes the bike wheel alignment
|
|
|
Post by Sharpest1 on Jan 16, 2011 22:25:34 GMT 10
For a naked, that is pretty cool. Aside from a place to hide the (massive) battery that should be doable. Having seen some of OCC's builds - this process comes to mind . . . NuSkin by www.tarjac.comScroll down the bottom of the home page and look at the New Patterns. Maybe Reaper Black 486 for the frame? The battery in the Triumph is laid on it's side. LOVE the Reaper Black!!!!
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Jan 16, 2011 22:46:14 GMT 10
Hey Cheeky, that stuff looks great, its certainly a great product but i dont think it would suit the look i am after. Trezza, i too am thinking about keyless ignition/immobiliser. that would be a good solution to cutting off the ignition housing off the top triple. also better for security as well. far better than a key and steering lock. only way they can get the bike is if they lift it. SSSA i am not sure. with an undertail exhaust they look awesome but at this stage, i will going after a normal twin exhausts, kinda between normal and high mount, kinda like an SP2, but maybe a bit shorter. this would hide the SSSA... i will also be wrapping the pipes as well. i also like the look. i am also hoping it would aid in keeping engine cool by funneling the heat out of the engine and stop the exhaust heating up the block. not sure if it will work that way. and too late! ive already begun filing the welds down too. i think it will suit the look i am going for. gympie41, i think i am leaning more towards powdercoating at this stage. i was going to paint it at first so that i could cut bits off after assembly that arent being used, but figure if i put the thought in now and do the work on the frame now, powdercoating would be the better choice because i could show it off more if i go for a glossy or satin finish. Hammertone Grey would be nice, but for mine, i am going for a black frame and swinger. benny, have taken to the welds with some hand files of various shapes. i am not confident enough with a grinder due to some of the angles. i dont want to take a gash out of the frame, so instead, i am labouring away doing bit by bit. the welds arent all that hard, it is ok to work with. getting in to some spots is a bit tricky but it is coming along ok. there are some low spots that i will probably fill with some sort of weld filler to fully smooth it al out. yep, i think it is gonna really make the awesome looking storm frame come to light. it will make it look like it is made out of one piece, especially in the area of the cross braces/supports. once i have smoothed out the welds, i will then prob start chopping off the fairing mounts and dash mounts from the frame and smooth those out as well. there are also some casting marks from manufacture left over which will get a going over as well. it all costs nothing except time, patience and some perseverance. i think it will be all worth it. its gonna be naked, so i want to realy show off the beautiful frame the Rad is gonna be front mounted. at this stage i will be gong for relocating the RHS to the front. veyr simple job it looks. you can even use the original water hoses if you want to. i will also be adding a bigger oil cooler though. prob another row or two to help the rad out with cooling. if it gets too hot at lights, i will just get into the habit of switching off at the lights. will see. Swampy, the engine will mount up in exactly the same way as Honda designed it to. not sure what i have said that could be interpreted as otherwise. i will just be grinding off the fairing mounts, not the engine mount locations. does that clear it up? since getting up close and personal to the frame, i have noticed some really rough looking welds, aesthetically speaking. also some casting marks as well. on the inside of the frame this is even worse, quite bad really. this will all be mickey mouse after im finished with it. im excited to be working on the bike, rather than just disassembling ;D
|
|
pete
True Stormer
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by pete on Jan 17, 2011 3:18:23 GMT 10
I am getting my frame polished at the moment and the polisher asked me if it was ok to grind down some of those welds to make it more pleasant on the eye...still keeping things safe and strong of course ..this be an option for you Adza
|
|
Swampy
Senior Member
Posts: 300
|
Post by Swampy on Jan 17, 2011 19:27:04 GMT 10
Swampy, the engine will mount up in exactly the same way as Honda designed it to. not sure what I have said that could be interpreted as otherwise. i will just be grinding off the fairing mounts, not the engine mount locations. does that clear it up? Not knocking you at all dude Just sharing something I spent a bit of time nutting out. If I'm telling you stuff you already know then cest la vie The castellated nuts that do the pre-load on the motor mount bolts also affect the wheel alignment. If you have accurately measured their position and depth you might get away with it. The rear is committed to the motor as the motor carries the swing-arm bearings and the steering head is mounted to the frame, All pretty duh so far but the frame pre-load to the motor is from one side and that is easily changes where the steering head centreline sits in relation to the bike.... (don't tell anyone but even bolting oggy nobs on changes it if you don't do the whole procedure). The manual carries multiple CAPITAL warnings on the topic Reading the manual you will find a torque procedure for resetting them start to finish. I don't remember the manual specifying a lube but aluminium onto steel? Just rip your undies having to deal with a seizure. (Even lubed, mine had to go further than factory torque) Also note in the manual you have to hold those castellated nuts while you tighten the cap-screw. Factory part has an extension for the torque wrench. I just welded another socket beside the one I castellated to get access to the cap-screw. I had my VTR checked on Laser, then did them to the book and they were 1.8mm out before and 1.7mm out after. Then I fixed them and they are perfect much to the surprise of the guy doing the alignment. 1.7mm is enough to write a bike off he told me Barely more than a mm doesn't sound like much but what a difference when eventually right, bike was so much more nimble even to a gumby like me Next to what you are doing it's easy stuff to fix. ;D Keep up the awesome work Dude
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Jan 20, 2011 17:33:47 GMT 10
pete, cheers for the heads up, but im keen to do it myself now. loving working on it when i can Swampy, no probs mate. so you spent a bit of time "nutting" it out did you? ;D no pun intended? hehe I have only briefly read through the manual so far in regards to fitting the engine to the frame. I think it was bolt it all the way to the right hand side and then tighten or something. Seeing as you've done this already, i will certainly be paying close attention to the points you raise about this. I certainly would not have thought 1.7mm would make much difference. I'll certainly be taking your word for it. I will use lube as you did and will take it to get lasered as well once it is all done. I want this baby handling well. Thanks for the heads up! This stuff is important. well, im off to do a bit of filing...
|
|
pete
True Stormer
Posts: 1,147
|
Post by pete on Jan 23, 2011 10:00:48 GMT 10
I have to do the same ...I take it when you take it to get lasered the bike is completely assembled and on the road ? and who does this lasering thing?
|
|
Swampy
Senior Member
Posts: 300
|
Post by Swampy on Jan 23, 2011 12:26:09 GMT 10
The laser wheel alignment can be done by anyone with the gear I guess. I heard of of two in Brisbane. I'm led to believe insurance companies take bikes to them as part of the write off decision.
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Apr 23, 2011 16:23:56 GMT 10
well, its been a while... I have thought about it long and hard, just not much in the way of coin. So the gixxer is now up for sale to fund this build. I have also decided to keep the twin side mount rads. But i will be covering them up with cut down side fairings. check out an early sample of what i have done, that RHS is ruined anyway from a past crash. It is good to hack up. And yes, i got this idea from you benny! ;D there are two reasons I am going this route, one is because of clearance concerns once the front fender is on. I want no concerns of that nature. and two, I live in queensland and it gets hot. real hot. I am not convinced the front mount rad would be up t the job. nudenut says his heats up in traffic and he is from the gong. gets way hotter up here. i dont the bike to melt... I really need to get a headlight so I can see how far forward it will go. I think those side fairings and headlight combined with the overall shape of the tank should blend in nice. Oh yeah, that white thing out to the front is just a mock up of what the headlights general size may be. at this stage i am thinking a v-rod headlight or something like of the MV Brutale. Somehting big and roundish but modern as well. Once i get that headlight then i will be able to see how the side fairings look and if i need to hack off the ignition housing from the top yoke... slowly but surely...
|
|
jc
Regular Member
Matte black
Posts: 125
|
Post by jc on Apr 29, 2011 17:27:46 GMT 10
I like the look of the cut down fairing. What does it look like front on and what did you use to cut it with?
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Apr 30, 2011 15:21:30 GMT 10
I like the look of the cut down fairing. What does it look like front on and what did you use to cut it with? hey jc, I dont have any pics from front on. ive only cut down one side fairing so far. im sitting on it for now to make sure this is the way i am gonna go. i think yes right now. after i cut down the other one, i will take a pic from the front as well as other angles. i think i want to have the headlight on and forks in position to get a true idea of what it will look like. you can see the radiators but only the front end really and i will be painting the ends black and leaving the grill parts alone so i dont effect the cooling too much. it should look fine. i cut it with an angle grinder and then fine tuned it with a big file. the angle grinder quickly heats up the plastic and it begins to melt so i just did a couple of inches and then let it cool and then a couple of inches again and so on. i only had a steel cutter wheel. no doubt a thinner plastic cutting wheel would suit much better... i think i will be cutting down a bit more so it is slightly shorter at the front but retain the overall shape...
|
|
trezza
Honourable Member
'08 CBRThou
Posts: 613
|
Post by trezza on May 1, 2011 17:29:47 GMT 10
i have a feeling that is going to look amazing with the right belly-pan. I'm following this build pretty closely mate, so make sure you keep the photos coming. 'Storm's are so cheap these days, once i'm finished uni i'll be looking for a second bike... and man i love to fiddle
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on May 1, 2011 19:29:21 GMT 10
hey trezza, yeah they sure make a good bike! especially with a few things done to fix them up nice. speaking of belly pans... here is a pic of some pieces I have accumulated over a period of time (ive had the belly pan for ages...) thats a geelong carbon craft belly pan (not carbon fibre), a seat cowl (duh, and i will be keeping the original tail for phase I of the build which will get me on the road), some APE CCTs and an EVO star shift kit from factory pro. that should tidy up the shift nicely. and the eventual rear sets... i also have a 6mm spacer for the rear suspension coming from ebay which cost about 6 bucks! i probably couldnt make one for that. and thats the delivered price! i also made an offer on a vrod headlight but was knocked back... will wait and see what happens with that. not sure how much i am willing to pay for one yet... oh, also found a RHS fairing in good nick at a wreckers near my place i will prob pick up once i decide i will be running with the side fairings cut down. the guy there also said he has rebuilt/reconditioned storm heads in the past and could do it no probs so will prob take them to him to give a good going over. only recondition/check as they flow good enough from all reports. he is an older guy and i seem to respect older guys work more than younger as they tend to come from more of a craftsman mindset... im rambling now... not much else going on til i sell the gixxer.
|
|
|
Post by benny on May 16, 2011 20:45:10 GMT 10
Haha I love the shape of your side faring, looks heaaaaaaaps better than mine! Biggest problems I am having is what to do with the front. It leaves it a bit bare. Lookin the goods mate
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Jul 17, 2011 14:13:00 GMT 10
Got my dirty hands on a Vrod headlight! I like it. Mocked it up to see how it would look with the tank and forks kinda on I think it looks that goods. As can be seen, I have cut down the other side, I am keen on the cut down side fairings. I just need to mount the headlight up to the forks properly to mount it flevel and in the right spot. I think I will be able to mount it up nice so it flows with the lines of the top of the tank and blend in nicely with the side fairings. Just need to get my risers and bar now to get a better look of how it is all gonna look. I am gonna get a top yoke with no ignition housing as well. Gonna run purely keyless remote ignition. Slow and steady...
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Dec 2, 2011 17:01:39 GMT 10
I know... its been a while... Got some bits and pieces. Looking forward to getting some more work done ;D Custom top yoke, risers and renthal bar, coerce rearsets and fork brace. also got some HEL stainless brake lines. Giddyup.
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Dec 3, 2011 16:10:07 GMT 10
Just finished making some headlight mounting brackets. Just cut down the old clip-ons (wont be needing them anymore), bought some aluminium from bunnings and then cut, grinded and drilled away. They should be ok once I paint them black. And get new bolts. Mocked up the new top yoke and bar too. I like it. I had to double check that the top yoke sits directly on top of the second lock nut on the stem. It does. The new top yoke does not have the dust protector surround thingy going around the two lock nuts. That is all. A keen eye will notice there is no ignition housing surround. I am going the keyless ignition route from motogadget. There is no going back to key based ignition now Hope i can get it to work lol Next on the list now is to get the engine rebuilt, probably from Powerhouse Dyno-Tune in Nerang. Anyone heard anything about them? They seem to have a good rep. Just a standard recondition. Also get the frame and swingarm powdercoated black. Then I can begin assembly ;D
|
|
|
Post by eternityrider on Dec 3, 2011 19:03:44 GMT 10
just started reading about your fighter build,looking forward to the finished project,if the bike is as good as that pic you posted it will be a great looking streetfighter. At the start you were talking about cutting something to give the bike better midrange,i know very little about bikes,can you please explain what you were talking about. thanks jesse
|
|
adza
Regular Member
Build in progress...
Posts: 189
|
Post by adza on Dec 4, 2011 11:02:50 GMT 10
yeah sure eternityrider, it simply involves taking the RHS exhaust pipe off from where the exhaust goes from one pipe into two (near the RHS foot peg). After you take the RHS section off (which you will need to take the end can off from memory), you will be able to see inside the exhaust pipe at the point it splits from one into two. Here you will see that the section where it splits into two blocks off almost half of the RHS pipe. Most people think that its there due to keeping costs down in the manufacturing process. ie the time it takes to clean this up for each and every bike simply was not worth the benefit to Honda. So most feel that grinding this off improves performance and also exhaust note.
|
|