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Post by sparks on Mar 22, 2010 14:55:31 GMT 10
I have a 99 firestorm and was wondering if it was normal for the throtle to not spring back when let go mine is also very stiff when I pull it on is this normal if not can it be fixed
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cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
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Post by cheekybugger on Mar 22, 2010 15:31:56 GMT 10
Assuming you have checked that the grip is not fouling on the Bar End Weight then check that your cables aren't pinched/kinked etc.
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Post by sparks on Mar 22, 2010 16:24:13 GMT 10
Checked the grip it does rub on the throttle but when I tried to unscrew the bar end that want screw off is there a special way to remove them or is it just stuffed
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Post by Fozzy Bear on Apr 3, 2010 19:59:27 GMT 10
Sounds like the insides of the bar weight mounting system is turning as well. I had this exact same problem a few weeks ago.
Unfortunately, its a pain to fix for the right hand side though you may be lucky.
The internals of the weights are held in place by a spring clip which pokes outwards into holes in the handlebar. The only way to access these holes so you can push the clips back down ( so you remove the internals) is to remove the twist grip. The cables aren't long enough to allow the twist grip to just slide off the end of the handlebar (bloody typical!! grr) To do this, you have to undo the the throttle cables from the grip and to do this, you need to loosen them a lot more than the adjustment at the grip end allows. (I got them off without snapping one but no way would they go back on) and the only way to do this enough is to remove the tank and airbox, and loosen the cables at the carbs. So a seemingly 10 minute job turned into 3 hours.
I was extremely paranoid about snapping the end off a throttle cable as I did this on the morning before I was heading off to the superbikes at PI.
Once you get the throttle twist off the bar, it will take you 5 minutes to fix the bar end weight problem with a screwdriver and a pair of multigrips.
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Post by cheesemethod on Jun 13, 2010 18:59:38 GMT 10
I was having a similar problem with mine. The throttle was springing back slowly, if you gave it a bit of a rev it would take a few seconds to come back to idle when you take your hand off the grip. Was having to manually close the throttle to get any engine braking. The grip had ridden up over the end weight. Just a matter of getting the end of the grip to sit down in the recess between the weight and the tube, and now it's all good.
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trezza
Honourable Member
'08 CBRThou
Posts: 613
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Post by trezza on Jul 2, 2010 20:30:59 GMT 10
not sure if the vtr 1000 is the same as a vtr250, but stuffing around with my old 250 i had once, when i put the switchblock back onto the handlebar on the RHS(i put different handlebars on), it didnt go back on properly, and was rubbing on the throttle, making it not spring back. i pulled it off and put it back on eventually, despite how cool cruise control was, i figured it was probably dangerous or something... haha. so if youve fiddled with that they can be fiddly to get it back on properly.
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Swampy
Senior Member
Posts: 300
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Post by Swampy on Jul 4, 2010 17:29:31 GMT 10
I had a similar issue, mine had been dumped on the right grip and the little clip had been driven up the bar and had broken. The damper has a shallow drive dog that engages in the bar end. If the bar end comes loose the damper free turns with the screw. Pull the bar end away from the bike then push the bar end back and feel it engage in the damper, turn the screw without pushing the damper away.
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Post by sparks on Jul 5, 2010 21:28:29 GMT 10
ended up fixing it by replacing the throttle tube and cleaning the bar with some Emory cloth did the job and know it runs like new
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macca
Senior Member
2001 - Lapis Blue Metallic
Posts: 322
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Post by macca on Mar 11, 2014 8:49:41 GMT 10
I have a similar problem and I can only get the throttle to spring back quickly when I apply nearly all of the adjustment on the cable adjuster itself, which adds a lot of 'lag' to the throttle uptake - making it lurch when moving slowly. I think just need new throttle tubes and cables...
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macca
Senior Member
2001 - Lapis Blue Metallic
Posts: 322
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Post by macca on Apr 5, 2014 16:00:38 GMT 10
I have a similar problem and I can only get the throttle to spring back quickly when I apply nearly all of the adjustment on the cable adjuster itself, which adds a lot of 'lag' to the throttle uptake - making it lurch when moving slowly. I think just need new throttle tubes and cables... Finally bought some new push and pull throttle cables, thinking they'd be a fairly easy fit. Turns out its a bit of a biatch and you have to remove the air box. So I'm putting this task into the bucket along with the other major things I need to do when the bike is in pieces: install CCTs, check valve clearance, balance carbs, correct mixture etc etc . Actually does anyone know what cost I'd be looking at to pay someone to do these things? Any one recommend any good bike mechanics in the inner eastern suburbs of Melbourne?
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Post by sjscicluna on Apr 7, 2014 10:50:37 GMT 10
Look at the central coast stormers face book page I think there is a mecanic on there out your way
Sent from my GT-I9100 using proboards
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1wd
Honourable Member
'99 Limited Edition Teal!
Posts: 520
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Post by 1wd on Apr 7, 2014 16:29:53 GMT 10
I had to take my cables off on the carbie end and loosen up the adjusters there to get them off. (This was doing the cct swap out) Getting them back on was no problem but getting the throttle to spring back took some @ucking around, and to be honest I'm not quite sure how I got it in the end, was more like "lucked" it.
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macca
Senior Member
2001 - Lapis Blue Metallic
Posts: 322
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Post by macca on Apr 8, 2014 8:54:11 GMT 10
1wd that's the problem I have. I have to adjust the pull cable to have so much slack that the bike jerks badly at low speed and is dangerous around corners. However if I adjust it the other way then it's so tight it won't spring back when I turn right. So it's a lose-lose scenario. I had a quote from Sixty Degrees to do the cable swap plus install manual CCTs which I have lying around, and inspection of valve gaps plus balance carbs, mixture, etc, (excluding fluids and filters which I've already done myself) and I'm looking at about $500. So at this stage I'm thinking I just take a full day off work and do it myself. I'll probably take 5x longer than a mechanic but I'll learn something and overcome the 'fear' of having the bike in pieces I hope...
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1wd
Honourable Member
'99 Limited Edition Teal!
Posts: 520
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Post by 1wd on Apr 8, 2014 19:51:50 GMT 10
It's good experience! However, if you rely on the bike to get around on you might be stressed for time as it is something you don't want to rush. It's not overly difficult but you need to take your time and make sure you have all you need to do the job at hand. But good luck, it is good to know you can do stuff on your bike and keep $500 in your pocket - or to spend on other goodies
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vtrstormer
Admin
I feel the need, the need for a few twisties and a latte!
Posts: 1,663
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Post by vtrstormer on May 5, 2014 15:37:15 GMT 10
Macca do it all yourself just take your time. The experience is priceless and you save yourself $500 big ones.
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