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Post by kenmoore on Dec 4, 2016 4:54:47 GMT 10
Do it yourself mate.
I have painted numerous bikes and parts with rattle cans over the years.
The secret is in the preparation and there is plenty of info on the net with some very good instructional vids on YouTube.
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macca
Senior Member
2001 - Lapis Blue Metallic
Posts: 322
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Post by macca on Dec 4, 2016 7:03:21 GMT 10
Really? I thought the issue was that because the rattle can paint isn't baked it's way less hard wearing?
I'd definitely do it myself if the result would be as hard wearing as a pro job...
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macca
Senior Member
2001 - Lapis Blue Metallic
Posts: 322
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Post by macca on Dec 4, 2016 12:24:41 GMT 10
Did you use any special kind of paint? High temp resistant? Did you also use a clear coat? I think I want to try this... :-)
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Post by kenmoore on Dec 4, 2016 20:10:30 GMT 10
I have maintained contact with a couple of bikes that I have painted with rattle cans. One of them was done 3 years ago and is wearing well.
No clear coat here mate, It just adds more work to a tedious job.
As I said, there are some good tutorials on the Tube. That's where I got my tips from. The best tip I can give you is to make sure that everything you need is close at hand when spraying.
Have a go , take your time and plan it.
Good Luck!
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1wd
Honourable Member
'99 Limited Edition Teal!
Posts: 520
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Post by 1wd on Dec 7, 2016 15:57:19 GMT 10
Hey KM, when you say rattle cans, your not talking Bunnings I hope? Am I thinking you mean at least Super Cheeps cans?
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Post by kenmoore on Dec 8, 2016 6:02:12 GMT 10
Doesn't really matter where you buy the paint. I tend to stick with well known brands and use their other products as well. I try and stick with 2 pak paints for a more durable finish. I tend to use acrylic on body work, enamel on forks and swing arms and caliper paint on engines. Just what I have learnt over the years. Enamel and acrylic products don't go together , if using acrylic use acrylic undercoat or etch primer and the same goes for enamel. Like I said earlier, preparation and patience is everything when painting with rattle cans. Take your time, light sanding in between coats and plenty of time to cure before final buffing. It's not as hard as it looks. Here is a Bimota that I am working on and I have done the forks and swing arm in enamel which was the original paint used on this model being 30 years old. Engine parts with caliper paint and swinger and forks with enamel . This is the paint used. Here it is going back together Have a go !
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vtrstormer
Admin
I feel the need, the need for a few twisties and a latte!
Posts: 1,663
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Post by vtrstormer on Dec 10, 2016 6:35:34 GMT 10
Looks great mate. I have done the same and it's all in the prep of the part. Good prep good results. Great prep is great results... I have never done panels but I'm guessing it's the same
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cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
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Post by cheekybugger on Dec 31, 2016 21:14:31 GMT 10
Looks great mate. I have done the same and it's all in the prep of the part. Good prep good results. Great prep is great results... I have never done panels but I'm guessing it's the same What he said. I did all my mods paint work with cans - known brands not cheap stuff. Have also used automotive paint to make MDF look like anodized aluminum with great success. But it was all in the preparation. Matte black is IMO easier than gloss etc because it's a little more forgiving with surface imperfections. Primer-filler and premier-surfacer are both very helpful. SCA is your new favorite shop.
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Post by firestormgreece on Jan 6, 2017 8:59:21 GMT 10
I think a plasti dip paint would solve many problems and the best part is that you can change its colour anytime...
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