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Post by macka on Aug 5, 2007 17:40:26 GMT 10
Hi Guys and Girls, I am wondering if anyone out there can help? I have never had a problem starting my bike - until this morning. Road it yesterday, started first time every time. Went to crank it over this morning, no go! I have flushed out my fuel tank, pulled out spark plugs - they look o.k. Recharged battery as I drained it flat trying so many times to crank it over. Ran thru the usual stuff - kill switch off etc. It has got me stumped, as it was running yesterday. Can anyone advise that may have had similar problems and run through anything I may have missed. Like I say - it has stumped me and is really peeing me off! Thanks, Macka  |
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Thelodger
Past Master
Andy
2000 - Bleen
Posts: 3,565
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Post by Thelodger on Aug 5, 2007 18:34:41 GMT 10
Can't remember if the Storm has an ignition fuse or not  If it has might be worth looking at...apart from that spark,fuel,oxygen all should be good.... There are others here who are better at this stuph than me so don't panic the nuts'n'bolts folk will be sure to help. Andy |
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Post by macka on Aug 5, 2007 18:46:16 GMT 10
Thanks Andy,
Checked fuses - all except for the main 30 amp fuse. Theses were all o.k.
Thanks for the reply anyway.
Macka
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Post by Von Nudenut on Aug 5, 2007 20:44:47 GMT 10
Hey Macka
I think the 30 amp fuse you mentioned is a master fuse, and the bike wouldn't crank over if it was blown.
My best guess would be flooding. If all else checks out OK, too much choke/throttle?
Frustrating whatever it is ay!
Russ
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Aug 6, 2007 9:30:43 GMT 10
Check for spark as a first test. Then we can go from there.
Remove a plug, plug it back into the plug cap, and earth it to the frame. When the engine cranks over you should get a nice spark. If this is ok we can go to the next step, which would be fuel.
If it is not firing at all, not even a bit, then I would suspect it is spark. It is coughing a bit, but just won't run, then I would suspect fuel.
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Post by macka on Aug 6, 2007 18:28:07 GMT 10
Hi All, I got it sorted today, set of new plugs and wella - cranked like it's suppose too. Checked out the old plugs and they were oiled up. Simple fix - Happy to be back on the road!!!! THANKS, MACKA  |
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Aug 7, 2007 7:43:30 GMT 10
Why were they oiled up? I would think about this before you consider the problem solved. It might re-appear later on. |
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Post by poomba on Aug 9, 2007 14:31:37 GMT 10
are you blowing smoke mate??? your plugs were oiled for a reason...
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Post by colinlinz on Aug 9, 2007 18:25:19 GMT 10
Perhaps they were just wet from flooding? I guess he will find out one way or the other.
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Aug 10, 2007 8:36:21 GMT 10
Perhaps they were just wet from flooding? I guess he will find out one way or the other. I though that too, but oil looks different in my experience. It would be easy to not spot the difference though. |
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Post by colinlinz on Aug 10, 2007 9:08:47 GMT 10
They are a little different. One is black and shiny, the other is black, grungy and shiny. I don't know maka, he may know exactly what he is reading from the plugs or not. I thought these may help a little, or be of interest.    |
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Post by pjay on Mar 18, 2008 13:50:57 GMT 10
Colin, you beat me to it. I would suspect flooding.
In case any one is not sure how to deal with a non-starter due to flooding - push in the choke, hold the throttle wide open whilst cranking the motor over.
If it still won't start, the olden days boys used to pull the plugs, put petrol on them, and set fire to the petrol, thus warming the plugs. I do not believe that this procedure appears in any Honda workshop manual.
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Post by cfarider on Mar 19, 2008 18:58:58 GMT 10
just a question to ask if a 190 tyre will fit on a standard bike and rim
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Post by colinlinz on Mar 19, 2008 19:05:59 GMT 10
In short, yes. In general they will slow the steering a little. Pirelli do make a tyre that still steers a little quicker, and you could gain some steering response back by changing the aspect ratio of the tyre if another brand was preferred.
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Post by cfarider on Mar 21, 2008 16:05:13 GMT 10
thanks for info
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Post by pesto on Jul 22, 2008 10:22:28 GMT 10
Far out, now i have this same issue.....
I went to start the bike this morning and it wouldn't start. Exactly the same thing as this OP describes.
Is there a link where i can find out how to change a spark plug? Or should this task only be handled by people that know a bit about bikes? The catch 22 being if i can't start it how can i get it to a mechanic LOL.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Post by revhead1957 on Jul 22, 2008 13:16:19 GMT 10
I would suggest you need to use the watch and learn method for something like this. If you have a friend who can show you how to do this sort of thing, I would do that.
For virgin mechanics, this is not the sort of thing you can get instructions out of a book.
Although the job is not difficult, if you stuff it up, the fix is expensive.
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Post by pesto on Jul 23, 2008 11:08:25 GMT 10
Well i got the bike started without any problems this morning. This what i did: *Sleeping bag over the bike to hopefully keep it warm. *Connected the battery to a charger and left it charging up overnight. When i went to start the bike i turned on the ignition and opened the throttle 2 times. I kicked it over whilst pulling out the choke and it fired up first time. So charging the battery up overnight fixed the issue. It's a brand new battery and in warmer temps it starts fine. It's just these past few cold mornings that i've had problems. Anyhoo, hopefully this is of some help  |
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Post by colinlinz on Jul 24, 2008 21:55:22 GMT 10
Don't worry about opening the throttle before starting, there are no accelerator pumps in these carbies, so the throttle pumping won't do anything. Also when you use the choke don't use the throttle. The type of choke system is a bypass type, and only works when the throttles are closed. The easiest cold start should happen with no throttle and the choke pulled out.
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Post by FirestorminBill on Jul 25, 2008 7:20:02 GMT 10
Make sure the choke is fully out - it goes stiff at first but can then be pulled a bit more (the choke that is !!) ;D
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Post by revhead1957 on Jul 25, 2008 9:26:24 GMT 10
Something for the electrical types out there:
The VTR seems to be really susceptible to a battery that is even slightly down on charge. Is the ignition circuit so touchy that it requires max volts to fire? If this is the case is it worthwhile to have a switch in the light circuit to douse the lights while starting?
Just interested....
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Post by FirestorminBill on Jul 25, 2008 12:58:14 GMT 10
Is the ignition circuit so touchy that it requires max volts to fire? Just interested.... Just replaced my battery last week - it was the original one - 7 1/3 years old and only recently was sluggish spinning over, but the bike hadn't been used for several weeks. The CCA was down to 140, can't remember the vilts, 12.4V I think but it still span over, so I think the answer is no. |
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Jul 25, 2008 13:31:46 GMT 10
Something for the electrical types out there: The VTR seems to be really susceptible to a battery that is even slightly down on charge. Is the ignition circuit so touchy that it requires max volts to fire? If this is the case is it worthwhile to have a switch in the light circuit to douse the lights while starting? Just interested.... I reckon the battery is marginal for the engine, that is why the Deka is good. It will crank over for longer, so if it doesn't start straight away you can keep trying it. An interesting exercise is to hook up another bigger battery with jumper leads and see how well the engine turns over then. If you have the standard globe in you headlight it will use less than 3 amps, so I don't see it being a big factor. |
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Post by colinlinz on Jul 26, 2008 23:13:32 GMT 10
I've had the same battery since I've had the bike. It is a standard one. So far this year my bike would have to have only been started a handful of times. The longest it has run is 5 minutes down the road for a rego inspection (last week). It has always started fine, although sometimes it has needed to crank over for a bit to get fuel back into the carbs. I have never had the battery on charge yet (apart from last year when I did a regulator and the battery went flat on my way home from work).
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Post by spectra on Jul 27, 2008 11:36:40 GMT 10
Colin - just as a counterpoint to that, if you live in a cold climate (say Canberra) your experience with a stock battery, at least during winter, will be very different, I can promise. See my post in the Batteries thread.
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Post by colinlinz on Jul 27, 2008 15:26:50 GMT 10
No doubt. Batteries don't work as well when cold. It still gets cold enough here though. When I lived in Penrith it used to get down to -5 in the winter. I didn't have a VTR then, but a mate did. I can't recall him ever having battery problems either. At the moment I know a guy from work with a 750 honda cruiser. He has been through a few batteries over the last few months. It is possible to get dud ones, especially with smaller shops and their slower moving stock. If however it happens a few times I would be looking more at the charging system or leakages. I'll throw these links in for interest. I use these with distance delivery students and workplace trained students that can't come to our classes. www.autoshop101.com/forms/h6.pdfwww.autoshop101.com/forms/h1.pdfwww.autoshop101.com/forms/elec01.pdf |
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Post by ziggy on May 7, 2009 19:59:26 GMT 10
Something for the electrical types out there: The VTR seems to be really susceptible to a battery that is even slightly down on charge. Is the ignition circuit so touchy that it requires max volts to fire? If this is the case is it worthwhile to have a switch in the light circuit to douse the lights while starting? Just interested.... For anyone who might be reading this for tips (as i am) in response to the above question the VTR has a light cut out when the ignition switch is applied, therefore meaning this would not be such an issue. (Although leaving the power on for 30mins before starting is a different story.) |
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Post by slicer07 on May 8, 2009 12:08:36 GMT 10
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Post by Fozzy Bear on May 8, 2009 13:45:31 GMT 10
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Post by benno on Sept 15, 2009 11:33:34 GMT 10
I had problems starting my Storm and found that the connector lead onto the starter motor, which sits right behind the front wheel, was full of corrosion.
It's covered by a rubber boot but still cops a lot of spray from the front tyre in the wet. Took the rubber boot off, cleaned up the connecting nuts and washers with a wire brush, loaded it up with vaseline and it seems to start a lot better now.
This may help anyone else with starting problems.
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