cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
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Post by cheekybugger on Sept 15, 2009 12:13:45 GMT 10
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Hobastard
Honourable Member
1999 Gloss Black.
Posts: 796
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Post by Hobastard on Aug 25, 2010 20:26:54 GMT 10
No doubt. Batteries don't work as well when cold. It still gets cold enough here though. When I lived in Penrith it used to get down to -5 in the winter. I didn't have a VTR then, but a mate did. I can't recall him ever having battery problems either. At the moment I know a guy from work with a 750 honda cruiser. He has been through a few batteries over the last few months. It is possible to get dud ones, especially with smaller shops and their slower moving stock. If however it happens a few times I would be looking more at the charging system or leakages. I'll throw these links in for interest. I use these with distance delivery students and workplace trained students that can't come to our classes. www.autoshop101.com/forms/h6.pdfwww.autoshop101.com/forms/h1.pdfwww.autoshop101.com/forms/elec01.pdfIt sometimes gets UP to 5 here in winter.
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spitfire
Honourable Member
2004 - Blue
Posts: 993
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Post by spitfire on Aug 25, 2010 21:43:24 GMT 10
No doubt. Batteries don't work as well when cold. It still gets cold enough here though. When I lived in Penrith it used to get down to -5 in the winter. I didn't have a VTR then, but a mate did. I can't recall him ever having battery problems either. At the moment I know a guy from work with a 750 honda cruiser. He has been through a few batteries over the last few months. It is possible to get dud ones, especially with smaller shops and their slower moving stock. If however it happens a few times I would be looking more at the charging system or leakages. I'll throw these links in for interest. I use these with distance delivery students and workplace trained students that can't come to our classes. www.autoshop101.com/forms/h6.pdfwww.autoshop101.com/forms/h1.pdfwww.autoshop101.com/forms/elec01.pdfI dont like to disagree with someone who knows more then i do Colin I had the same problem from new As i bought my bike back in March 04 & the first winter was fine & i rode every day Then the 05 winter (while still living at Tamborine & winter frosts at -2/-4 mornings) after starting & warming it up. I then got 100m down the road & she died & refussed to restart Then a new battery went in, 12mths later in winter again she did the same thing (first year in Gympie)& has done it every year since & the bike is garaged This is the first year it hasnt been to bad (i dont ride it often either) & it did go flat & i chucked it the charger over night & she was fine. This is the first time since ive had it that the battery has held charge So i think it is due to the fact its been a mild winter So unless im missing something i think the really really cold mornings we have affects the batteries. The battery shop guy told me it is not uncommon for these small batteries to lose charge in the cold as there cells are so close together & they are a sealed unit
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Post by colinlinz on Aug 25, 2010 22:34:22 GMT 10
Cold definitely effects batteries; most chemical reactions are slower in cold, and that is all a battery cell does. I just don't know why the VTR would be much different to others. As yet I haven't had to replace a battery in mine. It would be worth considering models with relation to problems. From memory, I think the VTR changed battery types in the later models. Mine is a lead calcium battery. In general, these are better cold weather performers. I can't fault mine that's for sure. I'm amazed it still works, as the bike has rarely been ridden over recent months. It hold a charge for weeks on end without going flat. I have neglected I few times now and have had to charge it up. Each time I think surely I've stuffed it now, but the bugger just keeps on going.
If it was a continuing problem I would be checking the charge system, stray current, or maybe rethinking where or what type of battery you are buying.
Just on a related subject. I know why the VTR's regulator rectifier fails so often. Their designed current load is 20amps, but they can at times have 60amps going through them. No wonder they cook. They can be rebuilt and work just fine. After this they won't overheat, even without the fins. I'm not going to say where I heard this, but consider it came from a more than reliable source. On that note, my 1980 Yamaha reg/rec is still going strong on the VTR. As I thought at the time, they are just more robustly designed, and will handle the 60amps.
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Post by silverstorm on Dec 27, 2010 16:22:38 GMT 10
Hi Guys and Girls, I am wondering if anyone out there can help? I have never had a problem starting my bike - until this morning. Road it yesterday, started first time every time. Went to crank it over this morning, no go! I have flushed out my fuel tank, pulled out spark plugs - they look o.k. Recharged battery as I drained it flat trying so many times to crank it over. Ran thru the usual stuff - kill switch off etc. It has got me stumped, as it was running yesterday. Can anyone advise that may have had similar problems and run through anything I may have missed. Like I say - it has stumped me and is really peeing me off! Thanks, Macka Battery. lloyd.
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trezza
Honourable Member
'08 CBRThou
Posts: 613
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Post by trezza on Dec 27, 2010 20:12:08 GMT 10
I had a lead-calcium battery in my 'Storm right up until i sold it 2 weeks ago, and it was still perfect living in canberra, i ride to work at 5.30am all week, and not once did i ever have an issue with starting it. i had a receipt for the battery, dating December 2003 hell, it gets cold enough for ice to form on the road at 5.30, trust me on this i found some on the bike.... and still the battery was always good to go
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Post by executioner on May 30, 2011 20:54:15 GMT 10
hey macka is it up and running? i had a skim through the thread but didnt see if you got it working???
anywho...
things to check (i went through this very issue!!)
1. spark at plugs? if not... 2. check pulse ignition generator...sits behind clutch cover, plug is on left hand side of bike behind fairing, 2 wires, check for .7 peak voltage there when you crank....if thats all good 3. head to the ICM box, behind rear cowling, left hand side, massive loom in it, its the brains of the beast, check 0.7 hitting there 4. if yes, then check CDI box, at the rear, right hand side under cowl, check 0.7 hitting there, then check that 100peak voltage hitting out of that to your coild
if your CDI is faulty, you can replace it for roughly $185 second hand...if your ICM is faulty, pray, you need to replace anything that has to do with keys and HISS....new, total approx $2000.
hope this helps.
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