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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 6, 2009 15:58:18 GMT 10
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Post by jackdad on Sept 6, 2009 20:34:15 GMT 10
Looking good, like the bars.
Good work!
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 6, 2009 21:13:22 GMT 10
With subbie now in hand i only had to bolt it up, so today thats what i did....apart from striping a top bolt hole......it went as expected. After fitting the cowl it started to resemble a bike again.....sort of......the wiring was a pain to work out but i think i finally got it.. The only thing im concerned about is the gap between cowl and seat? it just didnt seem to fit right?
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 6, 2009 21:22:40 GMT 10
yeah thanks Jackdad...flat dragbars i think will fit the look im after... also after seeing the std seat height in the pic,next on the list is a spacer to extend the lower subframe mounts....Jack the backside up a bit and make it a bit more aggressive.
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Post by Von Nudenut on Sept 7, 2009 18:22:16 GMT 10
Starting to look like a bike! Getting excited yet?
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 7, 2009 20:12:38 GMT 10
Yeah Russ, definitely getting more and more excited as it starts to take shape......but, still a long way to go yet. At the moment i am trying to relocate the front coil, so far with little success....Maybe a few pointers as to where it would fit might help? anyone? lol..
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Post by johnno88 on Sept 8, 2009 19:04:25 GMT 10
Looking good vtrfighter!!! ;D With your front coil situation, can you mount it next to the rear coil and just have longer ignition lead?
Johnno88
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cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
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Post by cheekybugger on Sept 8, 2009 19:54:59 GMT 10
Looking good vtrfighter!!! ;D With your front coil situation, can you mount it next to the rear coil and just have longer ignition lead? Johnno88 I'm thinking of mounting the rear coil under the back of the tank when I tidy the wiring for my build - it may be possible to put the front one there in your case. Extending the ignition lead shouldn't be an issue, just don't make the mistake I did and buy silicon leads - must have a copper core BTW My seat sits much the same as your pictures indicate . . .
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 8, 2009 20:05:59 GMT 10
Does the ignition lead come off the coil? i thought they were soldered/hard wired? ill have to have a look at it...
as for the seat cheeky...its still in need of a kick up, but i also realized the front wheel is about 4inches of the ground and the back is on the ground....ill remove front stand and take another pic....might look a bit different....lol
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cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
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Post by cheekybugger on Sept 8, 2009 21:17:14 GMT 10
Does the ignition lead come off the coil? i thought they were soldered/hard wired? ill have to have a look at it... you could be right . . . it was another bike I learned that lesson.
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cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
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Post by cheekybugger on Sept 8, 2009 21:22:06 GMT 10
Oh and my reference to the seat was re the gap between it and the cowl . . . never did look hard enough to figure out why.
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 9, 2009 8:35:40 GMT 10
or i could be wrong Cheeky lol either way it wouldn't be to hard to extend them..i think i was just looking for an easy fix on this one? as for the seat....yeah sorry i know what you mean.....Does anyone else have this problem? "The only thing im concerned about is the gap between cowl and seat? it just didnt seem to fit right?"
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Sept 9, 2009 14:54:14 GMT 10
The seat gap is big. Have a look at some pics of other bikes and it looks too big. You will have to do some modding to fix it.
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 9, 2009 17:11:43 GMT 10
After having a better look i think the gap is a combination of no under tray seat latch, seat mainly only sitting on not properly clipped in, Once i fit a seat cowl pod to it im almost sure this will no longer be noticeable. On another note i played around a little today and whipped up a "mock up" bracket for the number plate mount, after seeing what the end result is i have HEAPS of ideas and improvements now to be confident enough to start the real one..Any feedback on the look/location? (keeping in mind this is NOT the finished bracket) and being happy with todays progress i decided to keep going, with the sub frame only sitting on i went and tightened up the bolts.....this gave me an unexpected headache...the L/H top (threaded) cross threaded on the way out.... so i had to drill both them out and put bolts in them...no biggie but a pain in the ass none the less and after all that, i thought id splash a little paint on the cowl to try and get a further idea on what she'll look like one day. I had always planned on painting my project bike matt black but due to the storms coming std in a matt finish i was worried it wouldnt look custom? buuuuut after a few sprays of paint i knew the matt was still a go'er!!! by the way, the repair...the primer.....and now the black is for my benefits only...when the time comes it will be painted by a pro. Also, i noticed the difference in seat height (cheeky) after removing the front stand! more to come
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afl
Honourable Member
2007 Black
Posts: 953
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Post by afl on Sept 9, 2009 17:13:50 GMT 10
Its going to look good. Nice work!
A
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erno
Post Whore
owner of the Thing
Posts: 2,005
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Post by erno on Sept 10, 2009 15:39:28 GMT 10
I know it's not cheap,but ever thought of a R1 tail section it will give that arse up look that your after.
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bluestorm04
The Hedge
2012 GSX1300R + 2007 GSX-R1000
Posts: 3,334
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Post by bluestorm04 on Sept 10, 2009 16:25:26 GMT 10
Following this one with great interest, and mate great concept with the step by step photos, we can all see it come together stage by stage. Well done so far.
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Post by johnno88 on Sept 10, 2009 19:57:41 GMT 10
Most definately is a credit to you mate!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Post by gitzy on Sept 10, 2009 20:04:51 GMT 10
Hey Hombre, i knocked up some jack up mounts for you today, and a quick 5 min exhaust hanger to give you idea for your pipes.. i'll be using something similar on the Bandit.. Gitzy out..
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 10, 2009 21:54:31 GMT 10
And you didnt think to bring em around? Nice work bro cant wait to tinker some more ANNNND, thanks all for the great feedback....
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Sept 11, 2009 16:26:38 GMT 10
Here are the pics of the Moriwaki ti & carbon fibre mufflers. The connecting pipes you see won't fit straight onto the VTR headers, but if you are making your own muffler mounts then you will need new pipes made anyway. As you can see one of them is damaged anyway. The carbon needs replacing too I think. It has been a while since I looked into it, but the cost was not much (under $200 from memory). It looks like there has been name plates on there at some stage, and you can see rivet holes left behind. The end caps are riveted on, and there is an internal baffle behind the cap. Might be handy for rego checks, but no doubt you could remove them if you wanted. These are not much good to most people, as they will not fit onto the standard headers. But if you are doing a project on a budget, then they will be heaps better than using stock mufflers in my opinion. Let me know if you want them, and we can work out how you can get them from Brisbane to Newie without paying too much. Hopefully you might know someone that can pick them up for you. Get me a carton of Nastro Azzuro Peroni and they are all yours. Ah, beer - the international currency. ;D
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 12, 2009 14:59:09 GMT 10
Hey Erno, i like the R1 seat units, but with the brackets i have in mind for the std sub frame i should be able to get the kick i want and for a crap load cheaper..plus i love the std rear end....thanks for the input! ALSO Thanks Shayne for the pics, i have pondered over this for a bit now and have decided to go with two stubbies, i came across these on Ebay and decided to go with something like these...there 10inch, carbon fibre. So for a tad under $500 i could have two and i can pick them up!!! Being a fighter and all i think these will fit the look im trying to achieve i also managed to find the mirrors i want from the same ebay store Thanks all and keep the ideas and feedback coming
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Sept 12, 2009 15:49:38 GMT 10
No worries.
Those mufflers are short. I would be worried about noise. I would try and get baffles for them if I was you. That way you can adjust the baffle if you want, or just keep them handy for machinery inspections or rego time.
They look good, but cheap carbon may not last long. Twin cylinder engines tend to crack carbon mufflers. Hope they are up to the task.
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 12, 2009 16:50:03 GMT 10
yeah the cheap carbon bit is the main worry to me....I haven't yet decided if these are the ones ill buy, just that these are the sort/style i'm after. Muffler wise, i am going for a look similar to this.....
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cheekybugger
True Stormer
98' Black - Needs a Wash . . . Sold. 2014 899 Panigale.
Posts: 1,156
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Post by cheekybugger on Sept 12, 2009 17:38:42 GMT 10
Shouldn't be too hard to slip an Alli inner sleeve behind the Carbon outer to stop them being smashed by the pulses . . .
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 12, 2009 19:01:05 GMT 10
Shouldn't be too hard to slip an Alli inner sleeve behind the Carbon outer to stop them being smashed by the pulses . . . That might stop the pulses at idle Cheeky...what about the pulses when my right hand iches After further inspection of the yellow beast (above), ive noticed that his cooler lines have been cut either end with the difference in length being made up with high pressure hose? According to the workshop manual, the oil pressure is 85psi @ the oil pressure switch...i know you can buy high pressure hose that would be suitable and i would have to have the ends of the lines flared where i cut them with some decent hose clamps? and not trying to be el cheapo but....but trying to save money where i can.....annnnnd, after refitting belly pan, it would easily hide the hose used... Anyone have any thoughts on weather this would work or not?
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 12, 2009 20:45:16 GMT 10
Ok so im really impatient and couldn't wait for a reply.........Can anyone tell me why the below would not work (apart from the use of air hose and no hose clamps) The lines were almost spot on length wise once cut so there is only max 1/2 inch between pipes, and hose over laps quite a bit.... The belly pan was a really snug fit going back on....but this could easily be fixed.
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shayne
Omnipresent
1998 Blueprint
Posts: 8,639
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Post by shayne on Sept 12, 2009 23:21:44 GMT 10
I don't like it. I think this is one area where you should stick with the best solution, rather than a cheaper solution.
A burst oil line will result in a possible engine rebuild. Getting proper oil lines made will look real cheap in comparison.
One more thing. Getting stuck into a project is great, no doubt about it. But do yourself a favour and don't take shortcuts or be impatient. You may just end up having to do things again later, or end up with a job that you are not happy with. My project was planned as well as I could, and only when something was right did I move on to the next job. This took me 3 years. Take your time to make sure you are happy when you are finished.
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Post by vtrfighter on Sept 13, 2009 8:46:36 GMT 10
and not trying to be el cheapo but....but trying to save money where i can.. Anyone have any thoughts on weather this would work or not? Spot on there Shayne, i refuse to do anything that may be "iffy" as quoted above, i do not want to be cheap and take short cuts and want/need to save money where i can and also want to do as much work to the bike myself as possible. Im still going to ask around over the next few days (not rushing into it), but yeah not going to move forward on this one until i get some firm "yes it will work" or "no it wont work" answers. At worst...All ive done is made mr Enzed's job easier by cutting the lines to length for him to join... Cheers
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Post by aussie on Sept 13, 2009 18:44:24 GMT 10
and not trying to be el cheapo but....but trying to save money where i can.. Anyone have any thoughts on weather this would work or not? Spot on there Shayne, i refuse to do anything that may be "iffy" as quoted above, i do not want to be cheap and take short cuts and want/need to save money where i can and also want to do as much work to the bike myself as possible. Im still going to ask around over the next few days (not rushing into it), but yeah not going to move forward on this one until i get some firm "yes it will work" or "no it wont work" answers. At worst...All ive done is made mr Enzed's job easier by cutting the lines to length for him to join... Cheers With the proper oil cooler rubber hose( available at any auto parts store) and clamps, it will work fine,and properly last for ever. Maybe latter on when you have some spare cash laying around get some hoses made up , or even go with the earls braided line. P.S.........When you swap over handle bars, do you want to get rid of the standard clip ons?........If so let me know ;D
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